Date of Event: 10/5/2024

Canyon Involved: Heaps

Region: Zion National Park, Utah

Country: USA

Submitted by: ANONYMOUS ANONYMOUS

Source: I witnessed the accident first-hand

Injury: Fatality

Cause: possible rappel error or inadequate equipment

Description of Event: Two teams descended Heaps canyon on Saturday, October 5, 2024 – my team, and a team of 4 lead by Justin Bingham. We ran into each other near the entrance of Heaps; Justin’s group was getting ready for the day after an overnight, and my group was hiking in, so we ended up ahead of them.

After a thrilling day of pothole escapes, my group was cleaning the final rappel sequence when a member of Justin’s group caught up with our last two. They requested we radio up to them when we had cleared the sequence (both groups had walkie-talkies) and also requested a belay for their first man down. We agreed to help and completed our descent, radioing up to them when the bird perch was clear.

Justin’s group began their descent, and eventually, Justin requested a belay for the final 290’ free-hang rappel over the radio. A member of our group stood at attention and confirmed they were on belay. Justin began his descent from the bird perch in what appeared to be a controlled manner, which was confirmed by his teammate (I was able to discuss the accident with Justin’s teammate, who was stationed at the bird perch during the accident, after the fact). Per the teammate, Justin should have had “extra wraps” of rope around his descender (Kong Hydrobot) for additional friction.

When Justin was about 100’ into the rappel (approximately 200’ off the deck), both his teammate and our belayer noted that Justin appeared to be adjusting his device and “kicking his leg.” Our belayer reported noticing his trouble and tightening up on the belay, despite what they described as “strange oscillation” in the rope.

Immediately after this, Justin yelled for help, and entered what appeared to be a free-fall of approximately 200’. Our belayer attempted to pull the slack out of the rope, but the forces were too great to overcome – while they were able to hold on to the rope, they were thrown off their feet by the thrashing rope. They suffered injuries (severe rope burn/bruising), but they were ultimately lucky to be thrown out of harm’s way.

Unfortunately, Justin’s descent could not be arrested, and he fell to the ground. His fall resulted in injuries that ultimately led to his death before he could be transported to a trauma center.

Because the rappel line was tensioned and thus unavailable, the rest of Justin’s team remained at their respective stations during the rescue efforts (two were stationed at the top of the sequence, and one was stationed at the bird perch). By the time Justin had been transported, it was dark. SAR and the remaining team members discussed their level of experience and willingness to descend, and were ultimately advised to shelter in place overnight. They were rescued from the canyon the next day.

Analysis:

  1. Justin’s loss of control on rappel is likely due to either not having enough friction and/or losing friction on his descender – in this case, the Kong Hydrobot. Use of the Hydrobot in this scenario, without using reliable methods to add additional friction, likely contributed to Justin’s lack/loss of friction.

  2. One complicating factor in how Justin fell is how he landed – he came to rest in a crouched position, while still attached to (and thus tensioning) the rope. This awkward stance, and the complex terrain surrounding him, may have contributed to the difficulty of his rescue.

  3. There was a lack of efficacy of Justin’s belay. Several contributing factors may have exacerbated this scenario, most notably, the speed of Justin’s descent. It should also be noted that Justin appeared to be rappelling on a yellow Edelweiss Canyon Rope, which has a bit more elongation than many “southwest” style super-static ropes (est. 4.5% vs. 1-2% respectively). The belay stance was also fairly awkward, balancing on loose talus. An attentive belay and communication between belayer and rappeller could not overcome these complicating factors. In fact, it is notable that the belayer was not injured by Justin’s fall. Relying on a belay as the only back-up in this scenario, without using reliable methods to add additional friction, likely contributed to the outcome of Justin’s fall.

General canyoning related thoughts:

  1. Below are some of my recommendations for mitigating the risks of an advanced descent like Heaps. Please note that not all of these are in direct conversation with the accident at hand, as many details remain unknown.

  2. Hydrobot: I learned it can be easy for a loop of rope wrapped around the device for friction to “pop off.” I learned of a similar accident (sudden loss of friction/control) while using the same descender and rope on another long rappel. Upon further research, the Kong Hydrobot is a specialized device designed for use in class C canyons, typically with larger-diameter, or even semi-static ropes. Many online users report issues with control on long, dry rappels on skinny ropes, as well as challenges with setting and keeping rope wrapped around the device for friction.

  3. Belay: Belay is supported by research and literature (for example, https://verticalsection.caves.org/nh/49/bottblay.html .) Some factors are different in caving vs canyoneering, however, the main concept is the same. Do not rely on a bottom belay (fireman) as a fail-safe back-up. Belays are a useful safety measure in many scenarios, but one must also consider factors that could make a belay dangerous – e.g. rockfall or an unstable stance. Careful consideration should be used when providing a bottom belay on a long rappel – one may consider (a) being able to take up a lot of rope very quickly while overcoming other complex force vectors (e.g. by tying into the rope and running with it); and (b) the possibility of abandoning a belay. When descending with a belay, one should proactively communicate with the belayer to ensure a timely reaction. The belayer should be actively watching the person on rappel and proactively taking up slack. To increase the efficacy of a belay, consider using a “southwest” style super-static (e.g. 1-2% elongation) rope. Less rope elongation means less rope stretch, and less rope for the belayer to take in to provide an active belay. It is best to stay very close to the plumb-line, though not directly in it, to minimize the horizontal vector of a belay.

  4. Select the canyoning team carefully. Heaps is a very difficult route that one should build up to, and everyone on the team must have advanced skills for safe passage – especially if something goes wrong.

  5. Consider your plan for approaching a technical rappel sequence. Be sure to be alert, warm, hydrated, fed, and adequately rested before beginning. Determine your group’s sequence and communication ahead of time.

  6. Be familiar with your systems. Practice your techniques. Heaps is not a good place to try a new rope, descender, or back-up method (or to attempt a long, overhanging rappel) for the first time.

  7. Select a descender (and rope) that is appropriate for the canyon. The last rappel of Heaps is long and dry. A “southwest” style canyoneering descender like the Crittr or Sqwurel would be a good fit, as they are designed to work with skinny ropes and provide multiple options for adding mid-rappel friction.

  8. Before embarking, especially upon a high-consequence rappel, be ready to independently manage your descent. This may include: (a) having multiple methods of adding mid-rappel friction available (e.g. device, leg wrap, Z-rig, etc.); (b) using a third hand or VT prusik; (c) rappelling with enough friction to be able to come to a complete stop; (d) knowing how to lock-off your device; and (e) having a rope grab available in case you need to self-rescue/convert to ascend.

  9. Hanging your pack from your harness contributes to balance and control, especially on long, overhanging rappels.

  10. Include PPE, such as gloves, in your first aid kit.

  11. Always pack your 10 essentials. You never know when you might need to spend the night in a precarious position.