Date of Event: 8/13/2016
Canyon involved: Bear Creek
Region: Ouray, Colorado
Country: United States
Submitted by: Sarah Perlotto
Source: Canyon Collective
Injury: Fracture
Cause: Rappel error, Water
Description of Event: A canyoneer was the first in her group to start down a rappel. Water flow pushed her so her finger was entrapped between her rope and the ledge, an overhang. With no footing or wall support, she was stuck directly in the water path and could not easily free her hand. She yanked her finger out from under the rope, feeling “every bone break.” After rappelling a few feet further, her hair got stuck in her rappel device, and while she had an air pocket could not easily access her rescue gear. She signaled for “Emergency. Lower me.” but the group above could not rig the pinched figure 8 to do so. With the help of a SAR teammate, the team was eventually able to convert the system to lower her.
Analysis: Whenever possible, embark on a rappel keeping your hands free from potential entrapment. Contingency anchors need to be rigged and manned such that a person can be quickly lowered if need be.
ICAD Analysis:
Although rappelling may appear easy, it is a perishable skill that requires good judgement and forethought. Overhangs, lips, squeezes, and flowing water can make rappels especially complicated and difficult for less experienced rappelers. Thinner (and therefore faster) ropes can be startling toward the end of a long rappel. In general, hands should not be between the rope and the rock; a slip or loss of footing could cause entrapment of a hand or hair between the rope and rock, and could also cause the rappeler to let go of the rope. Overhangs are a common cause of this type of problem, and keeping the non-rappel hand off to the side and away from the rope and rock should be a conscious effort; it doesn’t hurt for the anchorman to give this reminder or other tips if conditions warrant it.
Those manning anchor stations should be cognizant of checking rappelers before they get on rope, and offer pertinent advice or information for the rappel as it is known, or as the first rappelers feeds information back to the anchorman. This communication is critical for enhancing safety, as the first rappeler should be more experienced, and therefore theoretically more capable, of identifying potential problems on the rappel for the rest of the team. Those manning anchor stations are also responsible for not only managing the anchor and rope, but also monitoring rappelers as they descend or overcome obstacles whenever possible, serving as a spotter. Thus, it is important to ensure that anchormen are not distracted with other tasks or unnecessary communication.Another important consideration with releasable anchors is the gap between theoretical and actual releasability. Releasable anchors should be, “reliably releasable and reachable.” Awkward anchor locations or poor placement/routing of the rope through a Figure 8, for example, can cause the rope or a Figure 8 to be pinched against the rock or anchor bolts when the system is loaded. Or, anchor locations can be difficult to reach or man safely such that manipulating the anchor can be difficult while ensuring team members can approach the anchor safely and get on rope. These considerations should be evaluated when placing bolts or anchors (as should the pull angle), bearing in mind that optimal anchor locations can vary with canyon conditions.
A test of releasability (and pullability) can be valuable and informative; the first rappeler can load the anchor, and the anchorman can evaluate the rappel angles, load distribution, and accessibility of the anchor to ensure that it will be releasable and reachable under load.
If a releasable system is not releasable under load during a test, slings can be used to extend the system away from the rock. Or, if the system is pinned, a cowstail can be used to clip to the figure 8, and body weight (from the anchorman or other team members) can be used to temporarily unjam the Figure 8 from the bolt or rock.
For rappelers, getting hair, gloves, pack straps, or gear stuck in a rappel device is always a risk; keep in mind that flowing water can move hair or other equipment out of “secure” locations and right into the rappel device. Buffs or bandanas can be useful tools for keeping hair out of the way, as hair ties and clips can get pulled off or break under the force of jumps or flowing water. Teammates should also be routinely checking each other to ensure that gear is managed properly and risks such as loose hair or straps are addressed; if anyone observes an unsafe condition, or a potentially unsafe condition, they are obligated to speak up and inform the rest of the team, as canyon descents are safest when everyone is looking out for everyone else.